Kings Cross, Sydney: Why take a self-guided walking tour?

Using a downloadable guide and bronze pavement plaques, a self-guided walking tour in Kings Cross unveils the dark past of Sydney’s traditional nightlife district.

The Coca-Cola sign – an advertising billboard so famous as a landmark and meeting place that it is now heritage listed – marks the gateway to Kings Cross.

Kings Cross (no apostrophe) is one of the most notorious neighbourhoods in Sydney, despite being next to wealthy Elizabeth Bay. Traditionally, it has been Sydney’s nightlife district. It’s a place of 24 hour bars (some classy, some less so), strip clubs, shambling junkies and backpacker hostels. One person will be looking for somewhere to stay. Another will seek somewhere that’ll still serve them when they can barely stand. Another will be trying to entice all and sundry into a live sex show.

13 brilliant experiences in Sydney you should book

The Three Sisters in the Blue Mountains.

(💲Great value 💲) Tick off several bucket list items on a highlights-packed Blue Mountains day tour.
Get perfect views of the world’s most beautiful city on a Sydney Harbour helicopter tour.
Save money with a multi-attraction pass.
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Enjoy the romance of a tall ship cruise on Sydney Harbour.
Eat all you can at the Skyfeast at the top of Sydney Tower.
See migrating humpbacks – on a whale-watching cruise.
(Highly recommended ✅) Go behind the scenes of Australia’s most famous building on an Opera House tour.
Dine as the city lights up on sunset dinner cruise around the harbour.
Combine beers and stories on a historic pubs tour through the convict-era Rocks district.
Stand on your board and catch waves during Bondi Beach surfing lessons.
Go to wombat and kangaroo-spotting hotspots on a Southern Highlands tour.
Enjoy Sydney’s wild side on a Manly snorkelling & nature walk.
(🥇Top choice in Sydney) And, best of all, paddle to hidden beaches on a harbour kayaking adventure.

Yet Kings Cross has cleaned up its act somewhat in the last two decades. It is, however, possible to discover the neighbourhood’s dodgy past on self-guided Kings Cross walking tour. The City of Sydney has put together a series of History Walks covering different areas of the city. The Strip on the Strip walk covers Kings Cross. Combine it with the bronze plaques in the pavements around Kings Cross, and you can learn a lot without splashing out a cent.

Kings Cross walking tour: Tilly Divine and Kate Leigh

Kings Cross is the traditional home of Sydney’s criminal underbelly, and the first two major criminals were women. One, Tilly Devine, took advantage of a law that stated it was illegal for a man to make a living off the immoral earnings of women. There was nothing to say a woman couldn’t make a living off those immoral earnings, and she set up a series of brothels in the area. The taxman eventually caught up with her, and she had to sell the brothels off to a ruthless tough who had no family. When he died, most of his estate was left to the RSPCA, which suddenly had 24 brothels on its hands.

Then there was Kate Leigh, who took advantage of laws that shut pubs at 6pm, setting up “sly grog shops” across Kings Cross. Divine and Leigh had razor-wielding gangs that did their bidding throughout the 1920s and 30s. It culminated in a 40-man slashing brawl at the bottom of Kellett Street, now an odd little back lane where red-lit ‘Gentleman’s Clubs’ rub shoulders with restaurants and antique dealers.

Self-guided walking tour in Kings Cross: Abe Saffron

Their era ended with master corruptor Abe Saffron in control throughout most of the 40s, 50s, 60s and 70s. Through blackmail and bribery, Saffron had an uncanny knack of getting those who had the power to shut him down in his pocket.

Age and tax bills brought Saffron down, but the police ably filled the void of vice, drug-dealing and corruption themselves. The most alarming stories about Kings Cross are of what the coppers got up to – such as the gauntlet of batons that drunken brawlers were forced to run at the back of the police station as they went inside from the van.

These days, Kings Cross is beginning to embrace its past. The pavements tell the stories of the blood spilt on them through the bronze pavement plaques.

Euphemisms about the ‘characters’ are out in force, but some tell the tales of the victims. Outside the Empire Hotel, a slab commemorates Juanita Nielsen – a local journalist who had the temerity to campaign against developments on Victoria Street. She went to a business meeting at what was then the Carousel Club. She was herded up the stairs that can still be seen from the entrance today and was never seen again. All those who could possibly reveal the truth have since died. Darlinghurst Road wears many of its secrets on its sleeve; but it holds many more back forever. A self-guided walking tour in Kings Cross merely uncovers some of them.

Other Sydney neighbourhoods worth visiting include Surry Hills, Chippendale, Newtown, Bondi Beach and Parramatta.