Smith Street Mall, Darwin

Smith Street Mall, Darwin

Smith Street Mall in Darwin is the Top End’s main shopping strip. But Smith Street Mall is also a giant artwork sprinkled with plaques telling the history of Northern Territory.

On Stokes Wharf outside the Royal Flying Doctor Service Darwin Tourist Facility, a memorial plaque gives a brief rundown of what happened to Darwin in World War II. The Japanese bombing raids and ensuing destruction get a concise treatment. But the plaque is a glimpse into an unexpected bonus in Darwin. You don’t have to visit a museum for a history lesson.

Such plaques are an unexpected feature of Darwin, the Northern Territory’s capital and Australia’s most northerly city.

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Plaques on Smith Street Mall, Darwin

Along the Smith Street Mall, the major shopping strip in the CBD, there are two interweaving, curving lines. One is a blue-green, representing the sea. The other is a red-brown, representing the land. Each is full of circles, and some of those circles contain plaques delving into one aspect of Darwin’s history.

So, for example, one concentrates on the discovery of Darwin Harbour in 1839. Commander John Wickham and Lt John Stokes sailed in on survey ship, the Beagle. If the name sounds familiar, it’s because it’s the ship that Charles Darwin did his key voyages on while formulating his theory of evolution.

This is not a coincidence. Wickham and Stokes decided to name the harbour after their former colleague. However, this was 20 years before Darwin published On the Origin of Species. The city itself was formed in 1869, after numerous failed attempts to found a permanent settlement elsewhere in the Top End, in 1869.

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History of Darwin, Northern Territory

Other plaques tell of the pearling industry, of Chinese miners coming over in search of gold, of Greek refugees and the first Overseas Telegraph cable that connected Australia to the rest of the world, and the rest of Australia to Darwin. Each one adds a little element of what makes Darwin what it is today. And the one on ‘the track’ hints that World War II played a bigger part than merely destroying ships in the harbour.

Smith Street Mall historic plaque about Greek refugees in Darwin
The historic plaques in Darwin’s Smith Street Mall are an attempt to tell the history of the Northern Territory. Photo by David Whitley/ Australia Travel Questions

‘The Track’ is a nickname for the Stuart Highway, which runs for nearly 3,000km across Australia, connecting Darwin in the north to Adelaide in the south. For a long time, it was just that – a track. Pack horses and camel trains could compete with motorised vehicles. Then the war came, and infrastructure was improved very quickly, with the roads being tarred and sealed so they could deal with near continual convoy traffic. The investment in good roads, airfields and communications played a big part in Darwin’s transition from Hicksville country town to modern tropical city.

Another plaque goes into Cyclone Tracy, which pretty much destroyed Darwin over Christmas 1974, but that is better explored at the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory.

Darwin attractions beyond Smith Street Mall

A little walk along Smith Street Mall ends up being a great introduction to Darwin’s back story. It’s a fine introduction to the Top End’s biggest city. It’s also a smart activity to sandwich in between more conventional attractions such as Crocosaurus Cove, the Wave Lagoon, the Mindil Beach Market and the World War II Oil Storage Tunnels.

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